Pretty Paris Pastries

A few photos of some of the pretty pastry displays that continually tempt me as I'm walking around Paris. It's a good thing I walk between 6 and 8 hours per day while in this city.

These photos are all my original work and are embedded with watermarks. Please enjoy, but refrain from licking your screen.


 






Paris - Day Four

Day Four in Paris.

Today I had to be up relatively early (for vacation anyhow) I had an important visit to a VERY big name fashion house today. Can't say who, can't name any names. Couldn't take any pictures. But let's just say it gave me A NEW LOOK to fashion. And you're pretty smart cookies to figure this out anyhow.

Avenue Montaigne is such an unassuming street. There are no big flashy signs to advertise what's going on inside all the orderly apartment blocks. To discover this, you need to look up. Because it is here, in these pretty but relatively unmarked buildings that the haute couture of haute couture is being assembled. All the big French fashion houses are here, but you pretty much need to look to find them. Sure, there is also a store on the street level, but it is often not directly under the design studios. Case in point is House of Dior. The beautiful showroom store is located about 10 doors up the street from the actual Dior Accademy. And the doors to the Accademy are very plain, no signage, no big fan fair. And then to make matters a bit more confusing, the signs that are visible are for the showroom for Louis Vuitton. It's when you look up that you see where the magic happens.

You can just make out the little Dior banners on each of the windows, and the bigger, more prominent Louis Vuitton in the main floor windows.

If you are even remotely interested in seeing what goes on inside a top fashion house, well I'm sorry to say that I can't provide you with any pictures from my visit. Everything is ultra-uber secure. Lots of men in dark suits and earpieces and talking into their cuff links. But there is an amazing video for the costruction from beginning to end of Dior's iconic red coat dress from Spring/Summer 2011, part of John Galliano's last collection with Dior.

I can't tell you how many times I have watched this video. The process, the cutting, the hand stitching, the pressing, the trimming, the beading....the amount of hours going into producing one single garment. And keep in mind, there are usually 30 to 40 looks in any given haute couture show.

It was indeed an eye-opener and a full day of learning. Thoroughly impressed and completely re-thinking (well, almost) how I want to design from the inside out, it was time to move on. This of course meant more walking around.

From Avenue Montaigne I kind of did a big loop. I walked down the Avenue des Champs Élysées towards the Jardin des Tuileries, then through the gardens and around the fountains to the Place de Carrousel and sat and watched a man with six frisbees and a dozen dogs. This was actually quite entertaining. Dogs of all sizes vying for six frisbees which were constantly being thrown and retrieved. Turns out people pay him to exercise their dogs. Kinda like boot camp for dogs. Dogs get dropped off in the morning, they spend the day doing whatever dogs do at a doggie daycare, and then towards late afternoon, this guy takes them all to the park where they chase frisbees until their owners come to collect them.

After the dogs, I walked over to Pont des Arts. This is the famed bridge where lovers go and proclaim their ever lasting love by attaching a padlock to the bridge. There are actually two bridges in Paris with locks on them, so you have to be careful which bridge you attach your lock.


Pont des Arts is for committed love, while Pont de l'Archevêché is for your lover. Don't get the two mixed up ! Sad news is that Paris will soon remove the locks from Pont des Arts and replace the railings with glazed panels. The weight of all the padlocks has been deemed unsafe for the structure of the bridge.

From there I walked along the Siene to a place called Flow. It is essentially a concrete beach. Beach chairs are set up along the Siene, and you go up to the counter and order your wine or champagne or beer or whatever, along with some pâté, bread and olives and then take it back to your little "beach spot" and have a little feast. It actually made a lot of sense, looked pretty cool and was very popular. I had seen this place just in passing the past couple days, and it is busy from about 3pm regardless which day of the week. Across from Flow is a barge / boat that has been converted into a happy hour hang out. Rosa Bonheur sur Siene, which I guess COULD be translated to Pink Happy Hour on the Siene; and that would make sense. However, Rosa Bonheur was the first well-known female animal-painter (or animalière), realist artist and sculpture of the 19th century.

What was interesting to note was that there wasn't a huge display of cell phones or other distractions. People were there to converse with each other. I saw a group of five or six young dads; all with baby strollers, and a collection of Heinekens on the bench between them. And this seemed somehow normal. Wife says "take Junior for a walk"; husband calls up buddies and says, "Lets meet down by the river". There is no meeting up in sports bars over loud music.

I continued my walking over to Pont Alexandre III, then through narrow side streets where I found a little French bakery (boulangerie). Bought a couple pastries, then walked over to the Eiffel Tower to watch the sun set. I wasn't planning on going up the tower; for €30 it just doesn't seem worth it. Not to mention that the line-up to go up the tower was exceedingly long. Always is. Estimated wait time today was three hours. No thank-you. Instead, I took my pastries over to a little space of lawn across the bridge and enjoyed a nice view and sun set.

Dinner was at Chez Francis. Here's the one thing I don't like about travelling on my own, and I have found to be especially true in Paris. Servers in Europe do not like solo diners. They somehow believe that a single diner is going to be cheap. But from what I understand, servers in Europe are paid a decent hourly wage from the gratuities already included in the bill. And here's the funny thing about me when I eat out: I ain't cheap. I usually have three courses and at least one glass of wine; sometimes a bottle which I take the remainder with me. I average between €75 and €100 if I am having a proper sit-down meal. So while the food was mediocre (steak lacked flavour, not enough bernaise), the service really killed the experience. I was brought water I didn't want and then charged €7 for it. Bread and the first course where put on the table without any comment from the waiter. My main course was put down in front of me with no cutlery. My wine was delivered with the waiter holding the top rim of the glass instead of the stem. The dessert was missing components. Essentially, I was made to feel like I was bothering the waiter by being there, that serving me was a hassle. This feeling was compounded by the table next to me who I gathered were regulars. They were fawned over. They were bought complimentary this and complimentary that; there were long discussions with the wait staff and the manager about this and that (remember, I speak both English and French, so I understood what was going on). It became rather awkward.

When my bill arrived, I was asked if everything was okay. I said no it wasn't and explained why (the water I didn't ask for, the dessert being incomplete). The waiter then says "So everything is good?". No, I just told you it wasn't. "But it's okay, oui?". Sigh, shake my head and leave. French service my buttocks!

The restaurant does have a great view of the Eiffel Tower, and is close to another Paris landmark - The Crazy Horse. What a great show. The show was more about lighting and shadows and optical illusions. You think you're seeing one thing but it's the reflection of something else. It was really, really well done. Sure, there was nudity, but it wasn't so in-your-face like a lot of North American cabaret shows tend to be. The cabaret has been open since 1961, and has hosted famous performers such as Dita Von Teese, Arielle Dombasle and Pamela Anderson.

After the champagne show, I walked back up to the Arc de Triomphe. This time my pictures turned out okay. After watching the twelve lanes of traffic miraculously merge in and out around the monument, it was time to head home. Big long day, and another one on the way tomorrow.


Apartment in Paris and the Unwelcome Guests

Here are some pictures of the place I am staying in while in Paris. Lots of rustic charm and away from the busy city centre. Peaceful, comfortable, inviting....seems like a great place to spend a few days.

rustic kitchen....lots of wood cabinets
living room and stair leading up to the loft
living room with lots and lots of books .....in French
Unfortunately, this is where the charm ends. I woke up the first morning with one arm covered in mosquito bites. The arm that was sticking out from the covers. Six bites. I also have three on my neck and two on my left foot. Between the toes no less (those freaky-fetish mosquitoes!). So on the first night, a total of 11 bites. I even sprayed the bug spray that the host left in the apartment before I left for the evening and again when I came back, but it didn't seem to do any good.

And did I mention what time I woke up? 7:00am. Why? Because there is construction work being done on three sides of this apartment. Drilling concrete and pile-driving begins at 7:00am. No mention of this by the owner or website when I booked (then again, no mention about the mosquitoes when I booked either).

The second day I woke up with more bites on my neck and throat. Today is day three and I finally had to go to a pharmacy and get some antihistamine tablets because the bites are swelling up into raised welts about an inch in diameter. It's pretty awful. People are looking at me funny on the street, like I have Ebola or something. I'm also concerned because the welts on my neck are over top of my airway, and honestly...I like being able to breathe freely.

In total, I now have 17 bites and I have two more nights here. I have taken to completely spraying my arms, legs and neck before I go to sleep. I'm having trouble falling asleep because of a) the itching; and b) the thought that these little suckers are out to get me. Each time I start to drift off, my sub conscious thinks I'm getting another bite and I wake up swatting at my arms and and neck.

Then in the mornings, I need to shower because of the sticky spray. Oh wait, can't shower because the hot water tank is manual. After reading the French instructions a couple times and through trial and error, I finally figured out that I have to re-start the hot water tank in the kitchen cabinet, then wait 20 minutes for the water to heat. It is only a four gallon tank (think four plastic milk jugs), so each morning I need to make a choice: I can either wash my face and body in cold water while the water in the tank is heating, then wash my hair with the warm water (I have hair to almost my waist, so it takes a bit of water to wash), or I can heat the water, wash my face and body, then heat more water and wash my hair. Which means it takes at least an hour to do both. I guess I could boil pots of water on the stove, but I shouldn't have to be messing with this. The shower set up is a bit wonky too. The shower head is on a hose that you hold; there isn't a hook or a place to hang it up (that I can find). Which means you either have to do everything one-handed, or just scrap that idea and opt for a sponge bath out of the sink. So far, I wash my face and body quickly in the ice cold water and throw my hair up into a pony tail. I'm on vacation.

The water problem I can deal with, though this really shouldn't even be an issue. If I am paying any kind of money to rent a place, I should be comfortable, right? I mean, I'm not asking too much, am I?

Time to get out and forget about this place for a couple hours. Or look for another place to stay.

Paris - Day Three

Day Three in Paris!

The day started with finding more mosquito bites. Perfect.

I got a late start to my day. Part because I was waiting for the water to heat up in the hot water tank. Partly because I was searching online for another place to stay. I also had to go to the pharmacy this morning to get antihistamine tablets; hopefully the swelling from the bites will go down soon. I look a mess.

Decided to do a little shopping today. Here's the tough thing about retail therapy while on vacation: You can only take back so many pairs of shoes or handbags, and you have to be careful about weight restrictions. Unless you are filthy rich. If not, here's the solution around that. Actually, a couple solutions:

You can pack a small bag, and then buy all new clothes and shoes in your destination city; as well as a new suitcase. This works especially great in cities such as London or Paris. Pack only your favourite jeans and a couple tank tops and maybe one light sweater. I go a little further and pack one black simple cocktail dress and a pair of black heels. Maybe a strand of pearls (faux for travel). That way, if a special evening out suddenly comes up, you have something to wear. Okay, try and understand that I often go to the symphony or opera when I travel, and you'll realize this little black dress/heels/pearls trick is very handy.

You can do what I'm doing this trip. I packed a large backpack because I will be travelling for over a month. In the backpack, I put a folded up sleeping bag cover. Coming home, I will put my full backpack with items I've purchased into the sleeping bag cover, then fill up the extra space with my worn clothing. This is especially good if you are bringing, oh....I don't know...WINE home in your checked luggage. Pack the wine securely in the center of the backpack, use your own clothes as cushioning around the backpack in the sleeping bag cover, and check it through FRAGILE when checking in.

Another thing I've done (and will probably end up doing this trip) is send stuff home ahead of me. Half way through my trip, I'll go to the post office and get a shipping box. Then I put any brochures from museums, sweaters I don't need, clothing or shoes I've bought but don't plan on wearing during the trip, souvenirs....all go into the box (I remember the first time I travelled to Europe I took a curling and a flat iron. Ha! Those things got shipped back home in a hurry). I then ship it to a neighbours' or my parents' house. Just be sure to ship it ground or by boat if you are overseas. Shipping air is WAY too expensive. Unless, like I said, you're made of money. In which case, ignore and carry on.

During my aimless wandering of stores, I found Fauchon. And I fell in love instantly. I am a sucker for fantastic packaging and this company has done it right. Just look at the display of chocolates, candies, coffees and teas. And this was just one display, of which there were many. It was hard to look at the displays and not want to buy one of each.

There is a real culture of "à emporter" in Paris. This means to take and go or to take away. The store has a large delicatessen, as well as bakery and champagne selection. And I'm not talking cheap bottles of bubbly. From the main floor of the shop, you go downstairs to the "cave" (pronounced 'cav' ), where an amazing selection of vintage champagne awaits, perfectly chilled and ready to take with a box of French macarons to sit along the Seine asthe sun sets and watch the boats go by. Veuve Clicquot, Dom Perignon, Ruinart, Krug....pick your poison.

All the big name jewellers are located in and around the same area in Paris; Place de Vendôme. These are some serious displays of bling. Needless to say, these beauties were not part of my shopping purchases. At least not for today. But I spent a good amount of time peeking in all the windows. Each store has at least one security guard at the door; each dressed immaculately in a dark suit with French cuffs and cuff links. At least I think they were cuff links. They could have been security microphones. Some had ear pieces in. Like the Secret Service of jewellery stores.

Doing all that window shopping had worked up an appetite, so I made my way over to Angelina for a Croque Monsieur and a glass of champagne (yes, I know....spoilt rotten this one is). Angelina is a Paris landmark. The Salon de Thé first opened in 1903. It quickly became the place to be seen. Coco Chanel and Proust have been counted among its famous customers. It has long been a meeting place for the upper crust of Paris society. Or, at least, it used to be because today they let me in without question.

In any case, you either have to arrive early or come late in the afternoon, because they are quite busy. There is usually a line up everyday; not only to sit and enjoy tea but for their shop as well. There is a selection of house blended teas and coffees, hand made candies, chocolates and biscuits. The display cases offer a beautiful selection of fresh made pastries to take with you, and they are famous not only for these sweet treats, but for their house hot chocolate L'Africain. I saw table after table ordering the pitchers of warm milk and drinking chocolate, which you mix as you like at your table. It is served with a mountain of fresh whipped cream on the side. At €8.20 for hot chocolate that you pretty much make yourself, it is more like an event than a simple cup of cocoa.

After my bubbles and sandwich, I had a little strawberry, cream, custard and flaky pastry concoction; sort of like a fruit mille feuille. I also had a pot of their house tea, Mont-Blanc. Be forewarned if you order tea. It's premium black tea leaves, candied chestnut, toffee, orange blossom and apricot; and as such, you are charged a premium price. A hefty €7.50 price. But it is really yummy tea, and I did buy a tin of it to take home, which was a better deal at €13.00.
Refreshed and revived, I walked around the city for another couple hours, along the Avenue des Champs Élysées, tried to take some pictures of the Arc de Triomphe which didn't turn out well and made my way back to my apartment (and the mosquitoes).

Tomorrow will be another busy day.

Dinner Cruise on the Seine

Tonight I had the pleasure of enjoying dinner while cruising down the Seine. I chose Marina de Paris over other dinner cruise companies for their clean boats with large glass windows and typical Parisienne bistro dining set up as well as their menu.

Marina de Paris offers three cruises each day;  a lunch and two dinner cruises, one at 6:45 and the other at 9:15. I chose the 9:15 departure time, as it meant I would see the city at night.

Dinner cruises in Paris are not only a popular tourist attraction, but are a good value as well. The cost of my dinner cruise was €80.00. This included the two hour cruise, a three course dinner, champagne on arrival, a half litre of wine, and dancing.  We were all quickly seated and the champagne began to flow. I was lucky to get a window seat near the prow of the boat, which was completely glassed-encased so I could see all the Paris landmarks lit up at night. Each table was given a map of the route with pictures and a little explanation of each monument so we could follow along on the tour.

The first course was a quartet of little amuse bouches. Scallops with smoked tomatoes, a cous-cous with smoked prawn, a choux pastry puff with dill cream cheese and stewed tomato, and duck foie gras with cranberry chutney. Interesting that tomatoes were used twice in the same presentation, but no matter.

For the main course, the choices were braised chicken, cod with pea risotto or "slab of beef with porcini mushroom sauce". Slab of beef didn't sound overly appealing, never mind that mushrooms give me hives. I know I will more than likely get to eat amazing risotto in Italy in a few days time, so that meant...braised chicken for me.

 Dessert was another selection of small bites. A layered strawberry-rhubarb with vanilla parfait, a little lemon curd tartlette with meringue, a chocolate mousse with white chocolate flakes and an espresso panna cotta. All were yummy, but I am a sucker for lemon dessert at the end of a meal.

After dinner was cleared, the dancing began. By this time we were passing under the final bridges and nearing the Eiffel Tower. The tower is lit up every night, but the sparkling lights occur each hour at five minutes to the hour. Luckily, the boat arrived just in time for the light display to begin.

There is also a smaller version of the Statue of Liberty gifted by France to the United States. Although it is a tourist-y view to see the statue and the tower at the same time, I none-the-less took a couple pictures.


Several people at different tables were celebrating birthdays, so the DJ played the obligatory "Happy Birthday" and The Beatles' "Say It's Your Birhtday" a number of times; and each time a small cake with a huge sparkler was brought out. This kicked off the festivities for much dancing. I must say, it is quite the experience to be cruising down the Seine on a clear night in one of the most beautiful cities while drinking Bordeaux and dancing with a bunch of people you have just met. 

The cruise ended at about 11:30 pm and I did a little more walking around Paris before catching one of the last metro trains home.

I would definitely recommend Marina de Paris for a dinner cruise along the Seine. I liked that there wasn't an announcer on a loud speaker for each landmark; you were left to more-or-less discover the beauty of the city at night on your own; and it was interesting to see the landmarks lit up at night for a different perspective. 

Paris - Day Two

Today is my first full day in Paris for this trip. Not a whole lot on the agenda today, except to go see the Sacré Coeur (Sacred Heart) Basilica.


La Basilique du Sacré Coeur de Montmartre is a Roman Catholic church that sits at the height of an isolated hill and is the highest point in the city of Paris. The now-popular landmark was designed by Paul Abadie in 1870 and construction began in 1875. After Abadie's death in 1884, a team of five architects continued his design and the final stones were placed in 1914. Which the impending war, the minor basilica was consecrated at the end of World War I in 1919; by which time the public acceptance of the church shifted from a political and religious one (in 1873 the Archbishop of Paris, by approving its construction specified it was to "expiate the crimes of the Commune"), to more of a monument of dedication to honour the 58,000 men and women who lost their lives during the war.

Sacré Coeur is built out of travertine stone. The stone exudes calcite, which keeps the monument looking white even through weathering and pollution.

There is a funicular that you can take from the metro station up the hill to the top, but I decided to just walk it. Many, many steps. 270 steps. But the views are fantastic. You can also take MORE steps up to the top of the dome, but it will cost you 8. I was okay with skipping the extra hike and decided to instead wander around the basilica and then through the narrow streets of Montmartre.

Montmartre is famous for its many artists' studios and craft boutiques. There are a number of side walk cafés and street artists; but beware - the streets are very narrow and the cars passing by do not tend to slow down. Several famous artists have worked in or around Montmartre because of low rent (at the time) and a combined artistic atmosphere; including Salvador Dali, Claude Monet, Pablo Picasso, Camille Pissarro and Vincent van Gogh. There is a Salvador Dali museum (Espace Dali) which unfortunately was closed during my visit. I guess it just leaves something for me to visit on my next trip.

Because of its elevation, Montmartre has a series of steep stairs with wrought iron railings and lamp posts. You may recognize the scenery from popular movies such as An American in Paris, Amélie, Moulin Rouge, and La Vie en Rose.

It's interesting how sometimes in our rush to get to the main attraction, we overlook or even miss great scenes and fantastic reminders of everyday life and the incredible opportunities we have. An example of this is the old carousel at the bottom of the stairs before heading up to the monument. Many pass it by without even a second glance. But it was fun to sit and watch the old horses turn round and round, and how delighted the little girls were to ride the pink ponies and the boys to climb up high on those black stallions. It also gave me a breather after climbing up and down all those stairs. You may remember this carousel from the movie Amélie, as mentioned above. In the movie, this is the scene where she returns the scrapbook to Nino.
I found out that carousels were created as a result of tragedy. King Henry II was killed in a jousting accident, and so safer practices for tournaments were created. Thus, a "carrousel" refers to a type of military dressage. Originally, there were a series of metal rings that the knight must spear with his lance. Overtime, this evolved into a turning platform, and the rings were placed at varying intervals to increase difficulty. The knight would hook the rings onto his lance as he came around, and the rings were replaced by a servant so that they would be in position for the next time. The speed of the turning platform could then be altered in speed until the knight was no longer able to capture all the rings. For the birth of the Dauphin in 1662, Louis the XVI held a carousel festival with true fanfare. Over 15,000 guests came to watch knights participate in the tournaments. But it must have been some party, because even today, the location is known as Place du Carrousel.

After wandering the streets below Montmartre for a bit and picking up a few trinkets to bring back home, it was time head home to get ready for my sunset dinner cruise on the Seine.






Paris - Day One

Today is Day One of my travels. Well, technically, it's Day Two because I left Vancouver at 10:35am on September 29, but with time zones I arrived in Paris at 8:35am on September 30th, even though my flight was only 9 hours long. Oh, and the 2 hour stop in Seattle. Where I got a manicure at Butter London. Fantastic way to spend you time in an airport waiting for your next flight.

So now I am all checked in to my apartment in Paris. The place is charming, but very rustic. It is an old stone building with a post and beam ceiling. The apartment has two floors. To get into the apartment, there are four flights of stairs. No elevator. I think it used to be an barn or store house for grain and such. Anyhow, yes...it's very rustic. The bathroom does lack all the North American niceties, and the shower will get some getting used to.

I'm staying three stops outside the city, so a little quieter than being directly in the center of the city. Not to mention cheaper. Hopefully it will be a nice stay.

After a short nap to shake off the time change, I decided to take the metro and see some of the monuments at night. This is my second visit to Paris, and I've told myself that this visit would be different. Last visit, I made sure I was back to my B&B by 9pm and I didn't venture much off the predicable trail of tourist attractions. This time is more about seeing the actual city, and not just for the monuments and standard vacation snapshots.

Having said that, I knew that I wanted to stand on the Pont Alexandre III and the watch the Tour Eiffel all lit up and sparkling. It's something I actually didn't see last time. And I wanted to have tarte tartin and wine in Cafe Marly, which is in the courtyard of the Louvre. It's pricey, but it's also the place to be seen in Paris. Well, one of the places anyhow.

It was now 11pm and the cafe was still quite busy. Bottle of champagne (and I mean the good stuff) were being opened left and right. I decided to stick with a little Sancerre and my apple tarte tartin and just take in the scene and the people out having a good time on a Tuesday night.

After wandering around the Louvre courtyard for a little while and sitting by the reflecting pools, it was time for home (well, home for the next few days). The metro at night is a very interesting place. In our train car there was an accordion player, playing French folk songs. He also had a little dog with big liquid eyes that walked around the train with a little basket in its mouth, begging for coins. It was quite cute....except maybe for the accordion playing at near midnight.

Tomorrow will be another day walking around this beautiful city.

Quelle belle vie, non?